Gucci Takes You Inside the Alchemist’s Garden at Fall 2017 Show

Gucci Takes You Inside the Alchemist’s Garden at Fall 2017 Show

A detailed look at Alessandro Michele's latest spellbinding collection.

A detailed look at Alessandro Michele's latest spellbinding collection.

Text: Jake Viswanath

The motifs that people typically associate with Gucci no longer apply thanks to the brilliant creative direction of Alessandro Michele, who has taken the sleek and understated stuffiness that the legendary fashion house began to inhabit and thrown it out the window. Today, Gucci is a wonderland where every form of artistic inspiration can thrive and become Gucci signatures, and where less is not always more, as proven once again in their Fall 2017 show.

Guests attending the show walked into The Alchemist’s Garden, a space which very much resembled what Michele calls “the anti-modern laboratory.” Regal purple curtains rose to reveal a central pyramid, surrounded on all sides by plexiglass tunnels which the models walked through. The purple and red lighting gave the space both majestic and botanical auras, a feeling the clothes reflected perfectly.

Aspects of this season’s collection seem like an homage to the flower power era of the 1970s, something is almost certainly due in part to Gucci muse Florence Welch. Fall became spring as wide-legged trousers, long trenches, and suits of all varieties were smeared in decadent floral patterns, adding an immensely whimsical touch to the grand proceedings. Other '60s and '70s-inspired motifs also made appearances in the form of pattern-blocking suits, colorful kaleidoscopic stripes, and the return of plaid, often beautifully marred by intricate boho beading.

But the show refrained from grazing in the past too much. Michele had the possibilities of the future firmly planted in his head when creating, as shown by his use of leather overalls, metallic bows, and UFO designs that permeated silk gowns. The bullhorn septum ring added an effortless roughness to the otherwise dazzling getups, while the glitter veils encompassing the full body helped to magnify the space-age qualities of the show, also helped by the theatrically galactic soundtrack.

The music and art of more recent years played a role in today’s presentation, as front-row attendees Welch and A$AP Rocky lent their voices to the show’s invite, a double-sided vinyl with recordings of Welch reciting William Blake’s Songs of Innocence and Experience and Rocky reading Jane Austen’s Persuasion. Designs inspired by AC/DC also took center stage in an unexpected tribute. Gucci then unveiled the first pieces of their collaboration with photographer Coco Capitán — simple Gucci logo tees emblazoned with her signature quote prints —  showing that Michele will never shed of the house’s original DNA no matter how spellbinding his evolution is.

Perhaps the most important element of the show this season, the first time Gucci has merged men's and women's shows, was its gender-questioning nature. The looks were visibly defined as mens or women outfits by the model wearing them, but many could have easily been switched to the opposite gender and it would make no difference. This is the closest that Gucci has come thus far to gender neutrality, showing that the legendary fashion house is doing more than stepping beyond their former confines—it has shed of them completely.

See every look from the collection in the slideshow below.

Credits: Photo: Instagram/Elle UK

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