Olivier Theyskens Returns with Surprise Paris Fashion Week Show

Olivier Theyskens Returns with Surprise Paris Fashion Week Show

The master of gothic femininity returned to PFW with an unexpected show under his eponymous label.

The master of gothic femininity returned to PFW with an unexpected show under his eponymous label.

Text: Mariana Fernandez

After taking a brief hiatus from the fashion industry following stints at Theory, Nina Ricci, and Rochas, beloved Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens made his highly-anticipated return to Paris Fashion Week today, this time under his own name.

With the help of LVMH’s Maximiliano Nicolelli, Theyskens had been working over the last two years to revive the namesake label he founded in 1997. Earlier today, he showed the first of what will be two yearly ready-to-wear collections.

The collection featured Theyskens’s signature take on femininity—bold gothic references coupled with poetic romanticism. From soft suede to glossy python, black dominated the collection, as did wide chiffon skirts, sweetheart necklines, and bold hips. Models donned unkempt eyebrows, slicked-back hair, and minimal makeup (with the exception of a couple of dramatic red lips) leaving the clothes to be the focus of the show.

Erotic undertones manifested in the form of rich red silk and corseted waists, but the real show-stealers were variations of the ethereal ballgown Madonna wore to the 1998 Academy Awards that left everyone swooning.

Get a first glimpse at the designer's Spring 2017 collection below.

@OlivierTheyskens, master of the modern ballgown. #OlivierTheyskens #PFW #ParisFashionWeek #KarlaOtto

A photo posted by Karla Otto (@karlaotto) on

#parisfashionweek starts today love the new #collection of #oliviertheyskens @oliviertheyskens ❤️❤️❤️❤

A photo posted by Ingo Nahrwold (@ingo_nahrwold) on

#love #OlivierTheyskens #Spring #2017 ready to wear #pfw

A photo posted by Nayla Al Naimi (@nayla_alnaimi) on

Olivier Theyskens SS'17

A photo posted by eletrikhman (@eletrikhman) on

Credits: Cover photo by Inez and Vinoodh for V Magazine.

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