Text: Natasha Stagg
Chalayan delivered with a simplified high-concept line, as usual, with peeks of an extra layer representing a modern woman's dilemma: indecision. Christian Dior gave a mashup of Raf's debut there and a wild-edged memory of John. Elegant 1950s (feminine and masculine) shapes met giant houdstooth and neon orange pumps. Oscar de la Renta gave a history of the classic Spanish heroine: She worked hard as a poitical secretary before blossoming as a demure pin-up on holiday and finally landing as the contessa of her own childhood dreams.
As Jil Sander moves back into Jil Sander, The Row is looking pretty inspired. We love the popsicle-shaped capes and coats popping up all over the season and the soft, pale pinks and whites we've noticed elsewhere, too. But The Row took the detailing a step further and created a line so cohesive, it felt like a lifestyle—arguably what the Olsens are best known for. Valentino, too, had a covetable cape, in every texture, material and size, in red, black, pink and white. Outfits here were to be lusted after, not simply wanted: a patent cocktail dress can hardly be subtle, no matter how prim.
Something needs to be said about the prep trend. Thom Browne's girl borrows her boyfriend's menswear and sexes it up adorably. No. 21, Band of Outsiders, Sonia Rykiel and Burberry Prorsum, along with a long list of usual suspects showed good gone bad—a sexy schoolgirl, with layers—but the standout preppy look was the good girl who wanted to stay that way. Knee-length skirts, sweater sets and a low heel stood out as subversively not-at-all rebellious. Jonathan Saunders's first lady approach was welcome, especially with that mule.
And of course we're dying over these looks by Saint Laurent, on Sky Ferreira.