We're still seeing a strong peplum, a motorcyclist influence, and chubby furs in all tones, most notably bright blues. In fact, an almost-Yves Klein, along with the familiar-for-fall navy, and an electric sportscar blue showed up all over the pre-season, painting roomy trousers, fitted blazers, and sturdy cowls. Jean-Paul Gaultier looks a lot like it did in the early nineties, and now most of the rest of these collections do, too, incorporating an exaggerated attention to tailoring wherever possible.
We're loving color at Carven, shape at Givenchy, and texture at Yigal Azrouël. Ports 1961 is giving a superhero-at-any-age while Céline and 3.1 Phillip Lim are giving a young business-woman blogger. Acne hit all the marks with layered looks, most involving Kawakubo's Garçon-like volume and slouching purses, plus a nod to post-grunge flower pattered chinoiserie. And of course Zac Posen went all out, this time all over appropriately cult-followed models Crystal Renn and Anna Cleveland.