Text: Natasha Stagg
Rochas is clearly referencing when grunge went high fashion—and liked it—at Marc Jacobs's major Fall 2006 RTW show, in a very pretty way. The beanies, the layered sweaters, the oversized coats... it's as if the days of tabloid stars like MK and Ash owning the term "boho chic" never left us!
At Stella McCartney, a blue-on-blue, as we've seen elsewhere this pre-fall, was upstaged by a combo of camel and tomato red. A smart, uptown glam silhouette seen here and at the purely seventies-sexy Jason Wu preview looks primarily Halston-esque, but ultimately may answer the question of whether Hedi Slimane's new Yves Saint Laurent is making waves in the right direction. Even if the references are more Roxy Music album cover than Stevie Nicks Rumors-era, the intent is clearly a vintage femininity.
Barbara Bui's suits show some skin while the Versace woman stays true to her ultra-adorned roots and another fat fur bag shows up at a sophistacatedly grungy Preen. Thick straps are seen in a skirt at Kelly Wearstler, in a boot at DKNY, and of course in the branded bands of Hervé Léger by Max Azria.
We're seeing, too, an abundance of patriotic iconagraphy, either cluing us in to what we'll see in Fall or providing a red herring, as is often the case when a trend catches on too well. The bird, funnily enough, that keeps flying in (at Stella, at 3.1 Phillip Lim, and at Sea, so far), looks less Easy Rider and more American Eagle (yes, the mall store you'd resort to if your parents were put off by the sexier Abercrombie & Fitch in high school). That being said, we're definitely not above it.