Victor Glemaud's New Knits

Victor Glemaud's New Knits

Victor Glemaud Returns with No Nonsense Knitwear

Victor Glemaud Returns with No Nonsense Knitwear

Text: Katharine K. Zarrella

“Cut the crap and do what you love.” This is the ethos behind designer and longtime industry insider Victor Glemaud’s new collection of elevated knitwear, which launched today on Vanessa Traina Snow’s The Line.

For those not familiar with the Haitian-born, New York-based Glemaud, he has been a fashion fixture since the age of 19. In the late '90s, Patrick Robinson, then at his own brand, jumpstarted Glemaud’s career when he hired the FIT student as an intern. After his graduation in 2002, Glemaud tried his hand at fashion PR before moving to Paris to assist Robinson when he became the creative director of Paco Rabanne (now headed up by Julien Dossena). Glemaud had seemingly lived many lives during the span of his early career, so in 2006, it was only natural that the young talent take the plunge and launch his own menswear range, 7 Days of Victor. “When I first started designing, Patrick said, ‘Do what you like. Do what you wear,’” recalls Glemaud. What he wore was sweaters—new ones, old ones, vintage styles with holes in the sleeves that he’d inherited from his father (he’d layer those over Yohji Yamamoto t-shirts)…you get the idea. So he followed Robinson’s advice, and made reworked vintage cardigans the centerpieces of his menswear offerings, which were well-received by the press, and adored by those in the know. 7 Days of Victor has since shuttered, but its spirit lives on in Glemaud’s latest eponymous line of tightly edited knitwear.

Glemaud got the idea for this new seven-piece endeavor three years ago while visiting artist Lucio Fontana’s retrospective in Paris. “I was looking at the exhibition, and I was blown away by the slashes and holes, and how simple and modern and relevant [Fontana’s artwork] is today. I thought, I need to do something with this.”  And so he did.

Glemaud's debut Resort lineup features a selection of slashed cashmere pullovers and turtlenecks in black, cherry red, charcoal, and white. “Most people don’t wear sweaters that have holes, and if they do, they’re made over years,” Glemaud explains. “So to sell someone a cashmere sweater that’s pre-destroyed flips the entire message.”

What’s more is that the sweaters are for women and men—but don’t call them unisex. “Everyone’s throwing that word around and I don’t really like it. I don’t need to give it a label,” Glemaud insists. “It’s a people’s line, and I don’t think you need to have a defined waist or broader shoulders for something to be more feminine or more masculine. A fit is a fit is a fit, and if you like how it fits, and you like how it looks, you buy it!”

Glemaud also takes issue with the fact that “clothing today is too expensive. It’s really a problem.” That’s why his sweaters cap out at $460. “If I could, I would make them even cheaper. I want the kids to be able to wear this, that’s the goal,” he says. “I want these sweaters to be something you can throw on that’s well designed and that doesn’t feel precious. But I still want people to feel like they’re getting something special.”

Moving forward, Glemaud hopes his brand will become known as the go-to collection for great knits. “I want to do the seasonal thing,” he says. “I want to do great, yummy knits with interesting details—something fun and outrageous at times, but also chic.” He’s not opposed to expanding beyond knitwear, but he’s also not in a rush. “I want to stick with knits for a while,” he says. “I want to become known for that and then add other things. It’s great to be known for something—not for everything.”

Victor Glemaud is available now exclusively from The Line

Credits: PHOTOGRAPHY AND FILM BARNABY ROPER  FASHION GEORGE CORTINA  MODELS RILEY MONTANA/ NEXT JAMIE ROSS/ IMG MAKEUP SUSAN HOUSER  HAIR DENNIS GOTS  MANICURE KAYO / DEFACTO  LOACTION MILK STUDIOS

UP NEXT

MØ Takes It to the Streets