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February 24, 2009  <  >

02.24.09 MIX MASTER
Designer Michael Michalsky presents a truly teutonic take on Berlin fashion

Like Henry Holland T-shirts or Damien Hirst's hilariously satirical capsule collection of Swarovski-studded denim, Michael Michalsky's rapidly manned and strictly seated shows have little to do with everyday clothes. Instead, they are performances intended to remind the Berlin fashion community of Fashion with a capital F. Outsiders can nevertheless adore the glitz, attitude, frenetic energy, and hypersexuality of a Michalsky show.

This season, Michalsky staged his event in a dilapidated church on Zionskirchplatz. After removing the crucifixes, he sent models down the catwalk in flowing dresses with stained-glass patterns shimmering in crystals, or outfitted as Fellini-esque whores, or with black lace covering a swinging ponytail like a grieving yet totally hot mamma. The boys were dressed in hip-hop–style club gear and Michalsky himself wore bulky leather jackets with the words "Jesus Loves Me" on the back.

Fashion neophytes had fun, but insiders also savored the saltiness. "I thought it was about Turkish neu-Kölln proletarian chic," said Berlin fashion correspondent Damien McGuinness. "Michalsky is all about Berlin, and is really influenced by the Balshy kids hanging around Kottbusser Tor—hence the shiny high-tops and top-knot ponytails."

That balls-to-the-wall bravado spills over into the designer's extravagant parties as well. At the after-party, held in an abandoned swimming pool turned decadent nightclub, bartenders in priest's collars, nun's habits, or wild west madame costumes served up drinks. The level of risque irreverence was just high enough to drive home the idea of Michalsky as newest and most beloved bad boy. After watching shows strive for innovation or struggle to find a voice in the rough local market, everyone can feel some reverence for Michalsky's faithfulness to putting the fun back in Berlin fashion.

Photography (above) courtesy Michalsky

Photography (below) Maxime Ballesteros 


POSTED BY ANA FINEL HONIGMAN PERMALINK
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