Givenchy Artistic Director Matthew M. Williams has a difficult task, adapting his modern sensibilities for the classic brand legacy. Born in Evanston, Illinois, Williams is a far cry from the traditionally French Hubert de Givenchy. Still, the cohesion of these two national identities, combining the American with the French, may produce something even more fruitful. For their Spring/Summer 2023 collection, Givenchy attempts to intermingle these nationalities into one, unique sense of being. The crosspollination breeds something new, something more innovative than either Fashion lineage could do individually. 

The stage and setting of the show itself represented this intermingling of cultures. Williams was brought to France for Paris Fashion Week, importing American sensibilities into a Parisian setting. Taking place in the Jardin de Plantes, models walked alongside plants crosspolinated by botanists for years on end. French and American models coexist as the French and American styles do through the collection. 

The most obvious example of this amalgamating of fashion heritages comes from American workwear, blended into classic Parisian silhouettes. Militarywear and biker jackets are imposed upon languid floor-length gowns. Denim thoroughly adorns the collection, reflecting the uniquely American trend of the common blue jeans. These simple American staples are never allowed to stand on their own – they are presented alongside French eveningwear, mixing the refined with the everyday. 

Williams also continues with some of the classic features of a Givenchy line, like extreme tailoring. Skirts and gowns are gathered at the waist, emphasizing the model’s natural silhouettes. Dresses are also tailored to the model’s shoulders, creating a sleek and fitted look. Even some of the collection’s more oversized additions maintain their tailoring, flaring out at the arm or leg while still keeping the waistline intact. 

The collection also calls upon brand history in its usage of bags. New for the season is the “Voyou,” a signature new everyday bag. The piece combines the everyday woman’s bag with biker inspiration. Its slouched V-shaped look is typical of Parisian bags, while clasps and harsh calfskins are more American. The collection also brings the re-edition of many classic Givenchy bags, given new hardware and handles. 

Givenchy has always espoused a certain cross-cultural exchange of fashion between America and France. For Hubert de Givenchy, this was mostly imposing French style upon American culture. When we think of American icons like Audrey Hepburn or Jackie Kennedy, we likely think of Givenchy garments. Now this pattern is reversed, with Williams imposing the American upon French sensibilities. The results are culturally revolutionary.