Since January 2020, Dries Van Noten has not hosted a men’s fashion show. Two years spent in agony wondering when the fashion house will return. For the Paris Spring/Summer 2023 Menswear season, Van Noten breaks its hiatus.

For the new collection, Van Noten examines the human desire for protection and the intimacy of close touch. The friction between the softness and privacy of intimacy and the robust hard layers that protect us from the outside world inspires Van Noten’s theme. The softness and vulnerability of these ideals are something that can be overlooked when looking at the meaning of masculinity. Van Noten challenges this perception and intertwines these two ideals into different archetypes of man.

A majority of the collection takes inspiration from the Zazou subculture of Paris during World War II. The youth danced their troubles away to swing jazz at the Pam Pam Cafe. They wore their finest clothes, and those motifs are seen throughout the different silhouettes of Van Noten’s designs.

For the first archetype, an after-dark dandy takes control. Perfectly tailored pinstripe suits have a softer look with wide-leg trousers. It breaks away from the structure and adds a flowing feel to an otherwise stiff look. Baby pink skirts layer on top of select trouser combinations, adding a touch of femininity. Whimsical patterns, such as feathers, wings, and flower-like graphics invoke light and airy feelings, playing in tune with the intimate nature Van Noten aims to create.

The cowboy takes over for the second archetype. Although not presented in the typical fashion, the cowboy has a more fashion-forward sense. Dark brown heritage boots are spiced up with a snakeskin toe, creating a mix between comfortability and extravagance. Van Noten brings a feminine side to the traditionally masculine archetype by pairing the boots with short shorts and flowing tank tops. It’s a stark contrast to the typical representation of the cowboy and releases a sense of intimacy that one could interpret as the cowboy stepping away from its masculine constraints. Although Van Noten doesn’t stick with a western feel, no cowboy hats or chaps here, viewers still receive the message. It takes notes from the Buffalo styles of the ‘80s by mixing masculine and feminine ways of dress.

The ‘80s come back in full force for the garage scene grifter archetype. Skinny ties, loud colors, the luxury workout look, and crazy patterns all make appearances. However, the archetype’s main inspiration comes from Motocross. Trousers feature cut-out paneling to get a true biker look. A new ‘DVN’ motif covers sleeves, serving as a team badge of sorts. Honeycomb grids cover coats and shirts, driving home the aesthetic.

For the final archetype, Van Noten takes inspiration from sleepwear with the sleepy daydreamer. Blue, white, and gray unstructured striped pants look exactly like any pajama pants you’d find in any dad’s drawer. Flowing silk shirts complete the look, making nightwear acceptable for daytime.

All fabrics have a certain tactile quality that evokes enjoyment. Whether it’s the smoothness of silk, or the roughness of sequins, the fabrics play into the intimacy of close touch Van Noten looks to examine. After being deprived of touch for so long due to the pandemic, Van Noten returns to the runway with the hope that intimacy and touch will be explored again.