Country-western culture is deeply rooted in Black history. Though country music may be a white-dominated space of recent, the genre’s origins stemmed from Black heritage. Even the cowboy, that illustrious image of Americana glory, was originally a Black figure. Thus, a country-western brand failing to embrace its Black cultural legacy feels inadequate. Lee, one of these classic wild west clothing brands, has recently taken the step to recognize its social heritage. In partnership with The Brooklyn Circus, the two brands recently dropped a collection commemorating the Black cowboy, and all that Black culture has done to build an Americana spirit. 

The two brands seem like an unlikely match for each other. Lee sits on one side of the spectrum, a mass-market retailer specializing in items like denim jeans and flannels. On the other side is The Brooklyn Circus, a luxury designer brand focusing on the minutiae and beauty of Black culture. With different audiences and styles, the two brands share fairly little in common. Still, they come together under the guise of one, specific purpose: to celebrate the Black cowboy. Ouigi Theodore, Founder and Creative Director of The Brooklyn Circus, says it best: “The Brooklyn Circus finds inspiration in the pages of history, so collaborating with a heritage brand like Lee to highlight the history of the Black working west made perfect sense.” 

The collection itself features four items, each embracing that Black western spirit. A cowboy jacket and matching jeans refresh those aged western styles for a modern audience, while Whizit Bib Overalls showcase design prowess with proliferating zippers and the usage of salvaged denim. The collection’s height, though, comes from its varsity jacket. With embroidered illustrations of the Black cowboy, the jacket serves as a stunningly designed celebration of the collaboration’s focus. 

Lee’s collection with The Brooklyn Circus demonstrates just how valuable cross-industry collaboration can be. For big-budget retailers like Lee, meeting rooms and design floors can become echo chambers. By collaborating with The Brooklyn Circus, Lee was able to push out of an image of western apparel that was deeply founded in whiteness. By working with a smaller, Black-owned brand, Lee becomes fuller and more honest. And, maybe even better off, The Brooklyn Circus gets to bring its brand name to the public forum. All are left fulfilled, while the consuming mass gets some beautiful apparel in the process.