It’s been about three weeks since Virginie Viard, who succeeded Lagerfeld as artistic director after his passing in 2019, announced her departure from Chanel. Without a new artistic director, many wondered what Chanel’s haute couture collection would look like this upcoming Fall/Winter 2024 season. 

Presented by the “Fashion Creation Studio”, which seems to be Chanel’s in-house artisans, the team took the runway’s setting as a design cue; held at the Palais Garnier, the 150-year-old opera house held the same over-the-top theme as Chanel’s new collection. 

Straight out of a play, one look consists of an embellished corset, jodhpurs, and a cream cape, accented with a black bow and heels.

If the collection could be summarized in two fabrics, it would be taffeta and tweed. From a sweeping opera cape in black taffeta to Chanel’s notorious tweed sets, the silhouettes are reminiscent of Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel.

Although bows have been a trend for a while now, they seem to still be alive in Chanel’s collection. From nearly every model donning a bow in their hair to bow embellishments across dresses, capes, and jackets.

The evening looks emphasized lacquered jersey. One outfit features a floor-length black gown with ruffled lacquered jersey creating a glossy textured effect. The deep V-neckline is highlighted by the structured shoulders. A wide black bow hangs from the neckline, the bow’s legs extend to the floor. 

Chanel ends the show with a voluminous white taffeta gown embellished with flowers and puffy sleeves, mimicking a 1980s wedding dress.