For its Fall-Winter 2025 runway, AMI walks the wire. Actually, the French luxury label walks several of them. The balance between elegance and casualness may sound like an impossible feat. The very phrase sounds contradictory. And yet, AMI melds the two together to create a lively collection of elevated staples for their latest collection. 

Set in a former post office building dating all the way back to the early 1910’s, the show married both the intimate and the theatrical components of an unforgettable runway. Musician Caleb Arredondo performed a range of soulful renditions on the saxophone and piano, as a carefully arranged set of light fixtures illuminated the runway with a purely warm glow. Down to its concept, the AMI show was grounded in equilibrium. Impressive. On to the clothes. 

Featuring designs for both men and women, the collection was born out of an appetite for the universal wardrobe. It walks the tightrope between casualness and elegance, and then teeters on the brink of elegance and romance. 

Each piece adapts to the body, rooted in a laid-back sophistication, and the looks are dynamically free, irresistibly so. A palette of supple creams and gentle browns is punctuated by olive greens, and ranging shades of grey were layered over mustard yellows, muted for an understated chic. Silhouettes are relaxed and ensembles are straightforward. 

As for the accessories, AMI took their latest show as an opportunity to introduce the Mimi and the Étienne. The former ー named after the endearing French term meaning both cute and small ー is a functional leather piece, adorned with a stylish clasp evocative of men’s briefcases. And the latter, designed to carry anything and everything, is a versatile companion, crafted in supple leather and available in a smaller shoulder version. 

Jewelry is a combination of purity and playfulness: a mix of pastel bangles and gold bracelets, medieval-style pieces adorned with tiger eye stones. Women’s footwear came in a variety of textures, with both covered heels and flat soles. The bold range also included knitted sock-boots, pumps with colorful heels, and pieces with Dalmation print and bicolor pony hair effects. Regarding men’s shoes, thick soles on loafers, derbies and rangers, crafted from vegetal leather, came in shades of burgundy and olive green. Rounding out the collection is a bowling-inspired, lightweight sneaker in lambskin ー there’s that easygoing elegance again.  

Alongside prominent French figures such as the iconic Catherine Deneuve (seriously, she was French cinema’s beauty archetype), Lupin star Omar Sy, actress Leïla Bekhti and Lou Doillon, Whoopi Goldberg and actor Choi Woo Shik were also in attendance.

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