With A Change of Tone, co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons reworked classic menswear codes through a lens of precision and play. Sharp blazers were styled over striped turtlenecks that nodded to maritime signals, sailor tops expanded to architectural proportions, and shorts ranged from micro lengths to voluminous nylon bloomers.

Fabrics were featherlight but structured where it mattered, creasing deliberately and adding texture without weight—a perfect base for the collection’s sculptural approach. Raf Simons’ influence emerged here in the stripped-back silhouettes and sharp, architectural cuts, grounding the looks in quiet control. While Miuccia Prada’s wit surfaced in subversive touches like socks with sandals and sheer white bloomers peeking from beneath tailored layers.

Color was used sparingly, with a base of khaki, navy, and electric green accented by hints of coral red, cornflower blue, and pink. Accessories mirrored the same approach, with padded totes slung over crisp shirts, utility bags adding function, and woven cone hats sitting just high enough to feel intentional. Finishing touches came with slim leather pouches strapped across the chest, offering a final note of precision.

The show never turned heavy because it wasn’t about pushing masculinity to new extremes. It was about softening the frame (ever so slightly) and seeing what’s possible when you let it bend.

In attendance were several familiar faces of the House. On the front row, Benedict Cumberbatch paired a tropical print shirt with sharp tailoring. Stormzy kept things streamlined in a green nylon overshirt and crossbody bag. Lastly, Andrea Trimarchi and Simone Farresin opted for crisp, clean minimalism.

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