The U.K. carries a complicated legacy. From the highest, most institutional standard of power to the grungiest, most underground subcultures, British cultural heritage is more a spectrum than a line. Understanding this, Christopher Kane tapped into this ethos and went all out for his debut collection with Mulberry, digging up pieces from the brand’s archive to lean into a historical analysis of both the natural and the synthetic.

For his primary reference, Kane looked to the locale of Mulberry’s origin: Somerset, England. The ceremonial county serves as a melting pot for several key codes of the brand’s legacy. From its rich historical architecture to lush green woodlands (some of which contain mulberry trees), Somerset is the focal point around which Kane constructed his collection titled “City, Town, Country”.

In keeping with the theme of referential integrity, the brand’s Bayswater bag becomes another central point for the ensemble. The angular cut of the purse is translated into lines tracing the body, and the overflap into closures on coats and shirts. Soft leather, as with the Bayswater, is utilized for several pieces in the collection, at times ornamented by the iconic Postman’s Lock buckle.

Through shape and craftsmanship, familiar silhouettes emerge. Uniforms, for school or work, are referenced in rugby shirts and work jackets. A rustic appeal twists its way through a foresty palette, pulled directly from Mulberry’s iconic heritage check. Even the mulberry tree itself is noted in the palette, contrasted with the sharp points visible in the footwear, noting the dichotomy of nature and urbanism visible even in little Somerset.