When a brand carries a legacy as informative to the culture of fashion as Chanel, progression becomes challenging. Archival overhauls can only take a house so far, and a point will come when very big decisions have to be made. Aesthetically, Chanel is well defined by its history—the brand’s creative slate is burned into the fabric of fashion. But before coming to Chanel, Matthieu Blazy spent years at Maison Margiela and Bottega Veneta, a background well suited for experimentation.

The 2026/27 Cruise Collection magnifies a boldness Blazy carried coming into the French house. As with any strong creative director, he understands the brand’s history and codes at a granular level. Yet, he also sees the necessity for forward progress, pushing the outermost limits of the house by way of introspection.

Chanel carries with it both motifs and associations that date back over a century. The house is worn and celebrated as high luxury for high society. Yet, in its latest line, Blazy elevates silhouettes and fabrics to the center of looks that wouldn’t otherwise garner the same attention. Throughout the collection, the now 100-year-old black dress silhouette is woven into looks. Originally, the dress was a service uniform, reimagined by Chanel into an object suited for a runway.

This concept is furthered in the Cruise 26/27 collection, pulling from garments originating in the Pacific Islands. The pareo-style wraparound makes several appearances, elevating both traditional wardrobes and coastal relaxation, fitting for the spirit of the collection.

Acknowledgement of the Basque Country is another heavily intertwined theme in the ensemble. Looks inspired by bathers mingle with sequin dresses evoking seashells or crustacean wildlife. Stripes, chili pepper jewelry, and tamarisk motifs come together, painting an elegant and deep image of the coastal haven.

It is now the job of Blazy to continue the tradition of history-shaping at Chanel, and with the 26/27 Cruise collection, it seems he’s certainly on the right track.