Christian Dior once called flowers his most faithful advisers, cultivating entire gardens just to capture their scents and silhouettes. For the house’s newest haute joaillerie chapter, Artistic Director Victoire de Castellane transforms that fascination, along with Dior’s enduring love for lavish, late-night spectacle, into a collection showcased at Château de La Colle Noire in the South of France.

Opening with sculptural mineral forms, the designs feature layered malachite, chrysoprase, and boulder opal. Diamond borders bring definition, but it’s the interplay of material and space that brings each piece to life. Then the focus shifts to floral designs, using plique-à-jour. A delicate, open-backed enamel technique that few jewelers use. The effect is enhanced by adding custom lacquer shades from the Maison’s couture studio, resulting in colors that can’t be achieved with enamel alone.

Courtesy of Dior

The final part of the collection moves into darker tones and softer light. Opal doublets—opal layered over black onyx—create a shifting effect that reflects flashes of color as the piece moves. In the chandelier earrings, the stones are set in clean, minimal frames instead of traditional prongs, allowing the light to hit from all angles. Diamonds are used sparingly, outlining the forms with precision.

The stones are layered like natural rock formations, adding texture and depth. In the brooches, the enamel is so fine it appears weightless, casting a soft, stained-glass glow against the skin. Even the diamond outlines are deliberate, echoing the discipline of couture. It’s this attention to structure and detail that defines Dior jewelry under de Castellane’s direction, where honoring tradition matters, but so does how something is made, not just how it looks.

Courtesy of Dior