Presented amid the weekend bustle of Paris Fashion Week, Yohji Yamamoto debuted his latest Spring 2023 collection, echoing notes of thoughtfulness and groundedness. In typical Yamamoto fashion, the collection echoed the designers’ advanced design acumen of complex, avant-garde tailoring and intricate lines. Compared to his Spring 23 menswear debut, this launch revealed a more worldly view of the designer. Obscure and sophisticated, Yamamoto’s recent accumulation of polymath pieces accounted for delicacy while allowing him to exercise his Japanese design aesthetics.

Set in a zeitgeist of appreciative unpredictability, one could feel Yamamoto’s presence in every garment, sound, and aspect of the debut. From the soundtrack of native Japanese songs – sung by Yamamoto himself – to the asymmetrical tailoring that just screamed: “This is Yamamoto.” Staying on par to his early codes of craftsmanship with an all black collection, his pieces mirror Yamamoto’s tight lipped, enigmatic persona in a bold, and classy aura. For much of the designers debuts, an unmatched makeup of admiration and a particular deceptive attribute keeps the audience transfixed on the atelier’s creative praxis.

Watch the full show below: