Classic. Essential. Daytime glamor. All identifiers seem to be particularly obvious springboards for Trussardi’s Fall 2023 collection, but for creative directors Benjamin A. Huseby and Serhat Işık, juxtaposition is a welcome collaborator in their work. Known for their quasi-anthropological approach to fashion, the pair looked to the sciura, Milan street fashion’s original icon, which is a term for the typical city lady. 

Trussardi, of course, is as Milanese as they come, and the collection offers a peek into how Milanese society is dressing itself as they mill about the streets by the ​​Palazzo Trussardi alla Scala. Presented in the newly renovated Palazzo, Trussardi’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection reworks classic tropes from the archives into an elegantly sharp assemblage, perfect for any sciura. 

With a liquid leather-esque look, duchesse satin and nylon nod to Trussardi’s founding material, while a deliciously dramatic palette of blueberry, ecru and maroon pay tribute to historic tones of the house. 

An assortment of coats – some made from 14th-century wool, others duvet coats that shine like leather – stole the show. A hazelnut-colored faux fur coat, made to fit any sciura’s wardrobe, is worn by a male model, underscoring the Milanese influence on the design. Sciura glamor is played up with satin blouses that cinch in all the right spots, while crystal applique adds a captivating touch to opera-length leather gloves. Sharp cuts, high necks, and long lengths reimagine leather skirts and nylon coats for the modern wearer. 

While Huseby and Işık dip into sciura fashion, they avoid constructing clichés or creating a caricature, rather using this iconic symbol to tell the story of Milanese style.