Manifesting and evolving, Kim Jones utilizes his design acumen to build upon the codes he has established during his tenure at Fendi. For Spring 2023, Jones summons the focal point where iterations, transparencies, and fragments of the past make up Fendi’s distinct language. By this, history moves subtly into the future: Karl Lagerfeld’s work, from 1996 to 2002, offers the starting point for a collection that appears distinctly contemporary. Jones shared, “It’s about continuity. I am interested in looking at things that Karl has done, and seeing how we can develop them – both visually and technically.” 

With a nod to Fendi’s Autumn Couture collection, Jones offers a new dimension to ethereality: at once sporty and delicate, effortless yet refined. That by yielding a feeling of simplicity and agency for the woman in the clothing, looks loosely revolve around the turn of the millennium – in its collision between minimalist ease and pop-infused eclecticism. With a varied palette of harmonious neutrals, a bold allure peeps through the cracks – vibrant pink, cornflower blue, and vivid green appear boldly saturated. 

Building on Jones sublime knowledge of tailoring, it’s no surprise that intricately tailored looks were the backbone of his latest collection. Organic textures such as cashmere and fur, shearling and leather – materialize through Fendi’s notable savoir faire and appear layered with technical fabrics. Sleek satin is hybridized with mesh, and is grounded by elevated tennis shoes or rubber platforms. An inverted “F” of the Fendi initially appears as an illusory cantilever across footwear, in tribute to the house’s instinctive alignment of form and function.

The house’s trademark bags are fused with the same spirit of duality which permeates the collection –  high-shine leathers integrated alongside clean canvas, bold shades printed across natural hues, sometimes chained together, sometimes a pair simply clutched in one hand. In big, small, and everything in-between chic wrist mini bags expand on the chemistry between Silva Fendi and Kim Jones. Through this the house codes are seen harmonious across the collection, “even the bags become part of a family: big and small” (Silvia Venturini Fendi).

Watch the full show below: