Reflecting on Issey Miyake’s tradition of pleating, the brand has once again reimagined its original designs and silhouettes in fresh new colors and bold shapes. Fittingly, the show was presented in an uncomplicated museum gallery space, which matches the Miyake belief that while clothing can be art, it’s also meant to be moved in.
The display opened with a pleated paper being unfurled in the gallery space, revealing the flat garments that were rolled inside, and the design team arrived to dress the models. While certainly adding to the show’s spectacle, this unrolling was not merely for theatrics but actually revealed part of the brand’s pleating technology process.
Homme Plissé, known for its monthly color releases, stuck to a palette of demure pastels offset by bolder reds, teals, and oranges. Most pieces were in solids, with a few organic scenery patterns and geometric shapes sprinkled throughout.
While the collection kept classic Issey Miyake motifs such as rectangular draping, asymmetrical silhouettes, and matching sets, the brand experimented with novel ideas like horizontal pleating and a winged coat. The show’s opening display, combined with the effortless and floating strides of the models, reminded its viewers that pleats look best while moving and Issey Miyake is for everyone.