A Trip To The Sky: Holzweiler’s SS23 Collection
Utilitarian and poetic, the trio of Holzweiler reflects an existence harmonious in movement and one with the sky.
Amid the towering glass ceiling, weather balloons bob meditatively in the air among the Copenhagen Sky. Flowers cast in motion on fabric. Models oscillate on podiums in a microcosmic universe. The strata of malachite unveil a stunning bird’s eye view of rolling fields. As eagles soar across the moonlit cloth, clothing animates and inspires.
Presented in the home of Danish Agriculture of Axelborg, the Oslo-based, Norwegian fashion house of Holzweiler looked to the voluminous folds of parachutes suspended in mid-air for the construction of their latest Spring / Summer 2023 collection. Choreographed by movement director Yagamoto, models walked and interweaved in intuitive motion as their garments rippled and soared among them. Encapsulated by a serene circle of floating weather balloons crafted from deadstock parachutes, a 24-hour soundscape recorded by Yves Tomas in rural Wales echoes in the background. With an emphasis on existing purely in motion and harmonious in movement, Holzweiler is one with the sky.
Evoked through the collection is the amplification of the futuristic and the nomadic, the utilitarian and poetic. As aerodynamic, featherlight, and protective proportions delicately translate into lean, draped, and relaxed silhouettes, they wrap, twist, and ruche like ripstop cords around the body. A procession of garments soars down to earth with clinking buckles, fastenings, and jewelry, inspired by metal harnesses and parachute hardware. As practical and artisanal details collide, the trio of Holzweiler reaffirms their long-standing celebration of handmade craftsmanship.
For women, light and airy slips are layered with pooling trousers with their raw exposed seams nodding to the suspension lines of parachutes. Stunning dresses in a ladder-like knit tie with bows, vests are quilted with protective padding, and cargo pants with multiple pockets are spliced around the thigh. For men, pilot’s jackets are crafted in glossy vegan leather, wardrobe basics like vests, crisp trench coats, and long shorts are elevated, and bowling shirts and flared tailoring encourage a youthful silhouette.
Inpaok sinamay aviator helmets shield the face from G-force, whilst Taiwanese Rush Weaving, woven in collaboration with milliner Noel Stewart, provide protection from the sun. Crochet is delicately crafted into chevron stripe mules and delicate pilot’s hats. Long tassels, which knot, twist and tie, soar through the air like striking steering lines, cinching trench coats and trailing from stacked up shoulder bags. Looks are layered with chunky chains, and earrings that orbit in concentric circles. Parachutist’s backpacks buckle across the body.