Whimsical, fantastical, swirly—enter the world of Rochas Spring/Summer 2022 at Paris Fashion Week. As the debut catwalk show for Creative Director Charles de Vilmorin, the newly appointed designer presents a collection with a distinct point of view. One that is no doubt intriguing and has an eclectic spirit. With a varied narrative—first showcasing a color palette and designs embodying flames, then juxtaposing with de Vilmorin’s own drawings, and then in yet more contrast featuring deconstructed garments with rips and sliced pieces—the collection takes twists and turns fit for a jaunt in an edgy yet elegant wonderland. 

 

 

 

Plissé lamé dresses in black, red, and dashes of orange and yellow, begin the show on a fiery foot. Long and short dresses with ruffles, pleats, and slits allow for movement and embody a strength fit for the modern wardrobe. One midi dress with a kind of winged trim brings the drama, along with wide calf boots donned with the same winged design that are nothing if not statement-making. 

 

The collection transitions to showcase de Vilmorin’s playful and swirly drawings, printed on flowing skirts, dresses, and pants. In primary colors of red, blue, and yellow mixed with black, the designs embrace having fun with clothes, and are paired with modern and elegant forms fit for the contemporary dresser—high waisted, flared trousers and a halter crop top with a matching long skirt, along with a tailored, buttoned, floor-length suit coat with an open front. 

 

 

 

 

 

The final segment of the collection takes another turn, this time a bit more edgy with sliced garments, a high low dress, and plaid. The knee-length dresses, wrapped bra top, and asymmetrical flowing forms speak to the woman of today, who celebrates feeling powerful in clothes without losing a sense of whimsy. Ruffles, the wing-like detailing, and abstract textured prints add dimension that celebrates uniqueness and is sure to make a statement. 

 

Only time will tell the vision of Charles de Vilmorin for Rochas, but this is one fiery, statement-making start.