This season, identity is fluid. As Acne Studios presents its Spring Summer 2026 season among the Paris Fashion Week lineup, the rules of women’s and men’s wear are completely abandoned.

Binary lines are bled—it’s difficult to trace where femininity ends and masculinity starts. Broad-shouldered blazers, baggy straight-leg leather and denim trousers, and boxy utility-style button-downs are borrowed from the masculine palette. Turning to the opposite, subtle lace mesh fabrics, hip-exaggerating bustier dresses, and gauzy slip skirts, all layered in translucent fabrics, embody a more traditional femininity.

Courtesy of Acne Studios

“I’ve always felt that creativity is perhaps about being able to see the world in a way you didn’t realise could be seen,” says Creative Director, Jonny Johansson. “There are people who can do that to you, they make the world feel different, they stand out and tell you a new story.”

Courtesy of Acne Studios

Gender roles are forgotten, and so is function. The season’s collection of jean jackets is ripped and worn around the neck, over one shoulder—the same goes for the collection of cardigans.

Aside from the peeks of pale denim blues, the runway is washed in dark shades and neutrals. True black, pale nude, and grays and browns of every tone comprise the Spring’s color palette.

Courtesy of Acne Studios

The venue itself is no exception to the season’s codes. The theme of homoeroticism, evident throughout the collection, also emanates from the walls. Both archival and recent imagery by Brooklyn-based artist Pacifico Silano is suspended through the arches of Collège des Bernardins—the moody aroma is transformed into a cigar salon.

As Acne Studios approaches its 30th anniversary next year, a celebration of Jonny Johansson’s co-founding of the Stockholm-based label, he continues to successfully mold the brand’s identity. “Strong, playful, poised, and most of all free, these women have been here all along,” notes the brand of the collection. “Only now, as Acne Studios advances towards its 30th year, they are leading us into the next chapters.”