With a new director at the helm, the latest Moschino collection arrives on a somber note, as Adrian Appiolaza’s predecessor Davide Renne unexpectedly passed nine days into his tenure on November 10th, 2023.

For Fall/Winter 2024, an ode to the House of Moschino and its founder Franco Moschino was the primary source of inspiration for Appiolaza. Traditional witty codes and a touch of satire (because it would not be a true Moschino moment without a bit of quirkiness) make up the ensembles.

Moschino classics are contemporarily twisted including the trench, the foulard, the tailored suit, laced-up lingerie, chic clutched pearls, and a business casual tie. Franco Moschino lives on through the collection’s pieces, as his trompe l’oeil and trickeries, can be spotted in the form of question marks and congenial smiley faces.

Groceries play up a casual look, and the classic 1985 cloud print can be seen printed across bubbled skirts and collared dresses, and “LOVE” and “PEACE” slogans are splattered across several pieces. Appiolaza devised deliciously deconstructed tailoring, stylishly stonewashed denim, and enormously oversized silhouettes.

Coated in sunshine yellows, cherry reds, lilac purples, powder pinks, sky blues, and definitive neutrals, the collection’s palette is diverse, as synchronized with the Moschino label.

Handbags range in size and shades, with big chunky dangling earrings attached to the looks. Elsewhere, footwear exists in bulky Mary Janes, pointed heels, leather boots, and sleek loafers.

While the refreshed beginning of Moschino is less of a loud statement, we can expect to see Adrian Appiolaza make a great deal of noise in his new role, as proven by this first Fall/Winter 2024 collection.