Set within Paris, this flea market brings forth a world of curiosities, living dolls, and an entire couture wardrobe. What feels like fantasy blends into reality for Maison Margiela’s Fall-Winter 2026, taking place in Shanghai. The dreamy essence of the collection is offset by the masks that the models hide behind, stirring discomfort in the viewer. Anonymity is cherished in this dream world, where the clothes take center stage. 

The show brings together ready-to-wear and Artisanal collections, along with couture that is exclusive in its production. This marks a return to the birth of the brand, where the collections were presented amongst each other rather than as separate bodies. Absurdity is encoded within the designs, with the use of unfamiliar materials, garments serving as a second skin, and the bonding of fabrics together. 

This show launches MaisonMargiela/folders, an exhibition series spanning twelve days and multiple cities. The very essence of Maison Margiela is meticulously explored, a curation of what makes the brand distinct. Beijing hosts an exhibition of masks, in Chengdu a curation of Tabis, and the Bianchetto experience in Shenzhen, just a few of them. 

The codes of Maison Margiela are emphasized throughout the collection. The tailoring is of the brand’s signature, with paint, fused fabrics, and cut-off tailcoats. Organza appears to induce a dream-like trance, at times layered over masks or as part of a dress. Vintage garments are repurposed, glued, and stitched together in an effort to give new life. Edwardian themes appear throughout, with lace edges or a high neck. 

Beeswax and porcelain both connect with the show’s location in China. Jewelry and dresses take on the appearance of being covered in wax, continuing the theme of restoration. The draping can only be described as impossible; the material takes on movement despite its weight. Knits appear purposefully disproportionate and ill-fitted, but the silhouette remains Edwardian. Anonymity remains the guiding principle throughout, no model appearing without a mask. 

A few accessories stand out from the rest. The Level Cut-Out boots and the men’s Float shoe both debuted. The famous Tabi took form in the Tabi-claw boots with a stiletto heel. The Link, 5AC, and Grand Slam were all standout bags that brought the collection together. 

Maison Margiela continued storytelling with this collection, making strides in the crafting of a world both intimate and complex. Key elements appeared again and again, forming patterns and familiarity while staying unconventional.