Held at Rome’s Musei Capitolini, Alessandro Michele presented the Gucci Cruise 2020 collection against a backdrop of antiquities, sculptures, and art. The show was a kaleidoscope of mythology, paganism, spirituality, gender politics and social commentary.

“Because only pagan antiquity could arouse my desire. Because it was the world of the past because it was a world that no longer exists,” said the quote in the entryway. The designer is a Bohemian at heart and this collection was about freedom, as he told WWD: “I feel the need for freedom, at times I feel like I’m suffocating, and I need to launch messages through fashion. I have found freedom through fashion ever since I was a child, whenever it was necessary to speak up”.

It was a politically charged runway, with Michele taking inspiration from identity, gender and body politics, along with his favorite decades. In front row attendance were A$AP Rocky, Elton John and his husband David Furnish. Muses Stevie Nicks and Harry Styles both performed at the Gucci after party. The show was typical Michele, intense, dramatic and theatrical, with dancing lights and a medieval choir.

Design elements followed on from last season’s show: spikes, mask, an eccentric mix of faux-furs, prints and patterns. Subcultures were referenced through silhouette and fabrics, it was retro glamour but in the best possible way. Looks were inspired by the 1960s and ’70s, with major vintage sportswear, preppy, grunge and hippy elements. A jacquard purple pantsuit came down the runway with the words: My Body, My Choice written across the back along with dresses that featured a uterus blooming with flowers “The uterus is a mysterious and wonderful part, we can imagine it with flowers, like a garden.”

Lighter moments came from Mickey Mouse motifs as seen on sweaters, and feminine gowns with delicate embroidery, beading, and sparkle. Models wore capes and wraps accessorized with eclectic jewelry, headbands, beanies, statement bags, and sunglasses.

Toga-style tunics were shown as were looks inspired by the Roman army. Some of the male models wore makeup and dresses; Michele later went onto to say “The only world that I can imagine is a world where every single person can be who they would like to be, without any sort of restriction or judgment.”

As the show closed the lighting became more erratic and the choir sounded more medieval, Michele was greeted with a loud applause taking his final bow.

You can see the best looks from the show below.