As a symbolic British couture house, Alexander McQueen has long been recognized for its formalwear and suiting; it was only natural that for its Spring/Summer 2021 men’s collection and women’s pre-collection, the iconic brand decided to revisit and expand on its long-lived tailoring tropes.

Drawing on stock fabrics whenever possible, the house of McQueen decided to go back to its roots with the signature Prince of Wales check, grain de poudre and wool gabardine textiles. Both men’s and women’s collections strong masculine shoulder typical of McQueen menswear jackets, while the nipped-in waist that characterizes McQueen womenswear can also be seen on pieces designed for men. Some other features that can be seen throughout the collection are a single elongated lapel on women’s jackets and have-cutaway backs on men’s, translating into an equally innovative subversion of typically male and female fashion tropes. A classic beige cotton gabardine trench coat stands as an epitome of that subversion — a hybrid, unisex garment spliced with Prince of Wales wool check and meant to be worn by any and all, regardless of one’s gender and sexual identity.

With pattern-making as the backbone of the house of Alexander McQueen, Attention to cut and proportion is paramount; and even with both men’s and women’s collection realized largely during worldwide lockdowns, the members of the illustrious McQueen still managed to uphold the brand’s highest tailoring standards while working and sampling the pieces from home.

Check out our favorites from Alexander McQueen’s women’s pre-SS21 and men’s SS21 in the gallery below: