Sharp tailoring is a hallmark of the House of McQueen—after all, its late founder did carve out his sartorial legacy beginning at Savile Row. But what happens when you slice open the seams of tradition and orchestrate them to the tune of something new?

While it’s true Alexander McQueen is famed for its subversive spirit, Sarah Burton adds an extra layer to the mélange of vestiary mischief with the house’s latest grails. Tipping the scales between tradition and irreverence, its Menswear A/W 2023 Pre-Collection progresses the house’s narrative of redefining beauty past convention.

A film captured by Swedish cinematographer Ebba Hult reveals subversive suiting. Either slashed up to reveal hints of hips or featuring inversed lapels that create sculptural wonders of the chest, the sensibility and sophistication of a classic get toyed with a cheeky verve. Then, there’s the ivory grain de poudre tailored jacket with an asymmetrically draped lapel. Paired with matching cigarette trousers, this jacket charms with subtle distortion and pronounced elegance.

Pockets are magnified to colossal proportions, with technical wear taking on a sporty edge. Whether in blousons, shirts, or shorts, these pockets capture the fleeting remnants of spring and transpose them to statement wear as autumn creeps around the corner.

And what would a collection at McQueen be without a dash of trompe l’oeil? Solarized florals bloom into tailored jackets, trousers, and outerwear. Crystal dew embroidery adds to the mix of delicate detailing as a double-breasted tailored jacket and silk poplin shirt glisten marvelously. Branching out from its apparel and onto accessories, solarized floral prints also appear on clutch bags and backpacks.

For those who prefer their flowers to stay in the garden, Alexander McQueen also dishes out exquisite staples that bid farewell to seasonal thrills. There’s the Grip 24-Hour bag and the Grip Mini in black leather that solidify the very essence of mobility. And who could forget the croc-embossed, four-ring clutch? Adorning each finger with a skull, this clutch is just one of many manifestations of the house’s affair with darkness that serve up style all year round.

Alexander McQueen is known not to play on the safe side. In the campaign’s film, its settings alternate between absolutes: black then white. Parallel to it, the collection’s elements oscillate between the debonair gentlemen and the punk. Tailored jackets get cranked up with biker collars, and classic white shirts get a little harness action. All the while, denim jackets are spliced with leather moto jackets.

Footwear, too, channels the rebel with boots. Whether in black Stack Boots or Punk Chelsea Boots with silver toe caps and metal buckles, the collection’s footwear stuns with its rugged edge and eye-to-boot magnetism. Gaze ear cuffs and rings in silver metal, black varnish, and ivory varnish imbue strength to the collection while pearl necklaces soften looks with dreamy nostalgia. You see, it’s all about balance at McQueen. Leveling the punk and the prince, fragility, and vigor, or vulnerability and assertion—it’s all about balance.

Alexander McQueen’s Menswear A/W 2023 Pre-Collection is now available at Alexander McQueen boutiques worldwide and on its official website.