Alexander McQueen has debuted its Spring Summer 2024 menswear collection, full of refined tailoring, rounded shoulders, and plays of femininity and masculinity.
Creative Director Sarah Burton put a magnifying glass on anatomy, how it can be wrapped, molded, and softened. More traditional menswear pieces are refined through small yet striking changes to heighten or tear down their masculine connotations.
With details taken from the Mcqueen archive, hand-crocheted tops inspired by Dutch Old Master paintings, and prints designed by Simon Ungless, the collection takes on simplicity in an extravagant fashion.
The first look, and one of the collection’s standouts, features a classic tailored double-breasted coat in black wool scuba, but instead with wide-fit rounded shoulders, smoothing out the corners.
The majority of the looks are black and white, sometimes with gold buttons or cufflink accents, or with Ungless’ fold-esque print. But looks with color often go all the way, including all-pink or yellow utility shirts and trousers, or a stunning multi-colored hand-crocheted knit vest.
The last grouping of looks continues the black or white base theme, yet is either adorned with a gold-crystal harness or splattered with metallic gold with the Ungless-designed pattern. The latter comes to a peak with the last look in the collection—a massive black and metallic gold cape over no shirt and simple black wool tuxedo trousers.