Alexandre Vauthier's Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023 Collection is Equal Parts Soft and Sharp

Shown at a beloved venue in southern Paris, Alexandre Vauthier’s Spring/Summer Haute Couture collection bucked seasonal norms. While the collection exhibited fixtures of the designer’s signature repertoire, such as structural suiting, metallic shine, and a surplus of crisp black, it also included billowing faux furs and a variety of long, embellished boots.

Vauthier’s motivation to bring these cool-weather styles to his Spring/Summer collection? He heard that an increasing number of people have been choosing to migrate North for their vacations instead of South. Always one to keep on top of the latest trends, Vauthier is adapting to that burgeoning climate.

Look 1, Courtesy of Alexandre Vauthier

Look 12, Courtesy of Alexandre Vauthier

Per usual, sharp tailoring came down Vauthier’s runway in droves. Super short hemlines were met with embellished details, such as a blazer paired with an asymmetrical underskirt adorned with pieces of mirrored thermoplastic which cascaded down the model’s thigh.

Look 14, Courtesy of Alexandre Vauthier

Look 20, Courtesy of Alexandre Vauthier

But there were choices made that extend beyond what meets the eye too; a set of snaps on the sequinned bomber can be released, allowing the jacket to extend into a longer garment. And the faux fur on the exterior of the coats was draped upside down, crafting a bolder, fuller shape than the fur would have otherwise.

Look 2, Courtesy of Alexander Vauthier

Look 27, Courtesy of Alexandre Vauthier

According to Vauthier, his choice to use bold color throughout the collection was a response to a need for strength in our stressful, anxious age. I’m not convinced that sentiment was achieved—these garments look more participatory in our dominant culture than resistant to it. But after several long COVID years, I’m thrilled by the sight of party clothes no matter how you slice it.

Look 29, Courtesy of Alexandre Vauthier

Look 32, Courtesy of Alexandre Vauthier