When Dublin-born Seán McGirr debuted with McQueen, in a former train storage space, critics and enthusiasts alike flocked to comment on the newly installed Creative Director. The show called to mind the early aesthetics of McQueen himself, but some questioned the new direction McGirr brought to the brand.

With his fifth collection, McGirr offers an unmasking. Identity is blatantly called to attention with makeup and masks, eerily creating a doll-likeness to the model’s faces. A few of the looks inspire reminiscing upon Stanley Kubrick’s Eyes Wide Shut, the imagination of the audience is allowed to run loose. The inspiring component of McGirr’s collection flows with a swiftness, allowing each person to imagine themselves under the masks, stepping into the clothes. 

The tailoring finds its inspiration, both currently and historically, in the Savile Row, with a structural quality that is made fluid in modernity. Lace appears throughout, even upon the oversized sunglasses adorning a few models. Elements deceive the eye, trompe l’ oeil, asking for a closer look, inviting a keen eye. A deep devotion to the details is apparent, thought informing the textures, materials, styling, and fluidity of the entire collection. 

The show opens with a look that is uniquely McQueen. A short and expertly tailored dress takes on the form of a peacoat, with sets of buttons lined down the front. Its paired with ostrich leather boots and a single earring.

Next, a lace midi dress appears, the accessories here speaking again to the themes inspiring the entire collection. A bracelet bag, resembling a medieval ball and chain, is fastened to the model’s wrist. An orange toned bob and doll makeup make model Alex Consani nearly unrecognizable.

The show continues, the aesthetic coming back to the eponymous creator of the brand. Dark romance flavors the show with an erotic tone, high necklines are offset with shortly cropped skirts. The ostrich leather boots remain a welcome consistent element, the chic patent toe signalling to a chicness.

Many of the looks remain distinctly McQueen. A white dress shirt is tucked into a structured skirt, oversized details at the wrist and collar a customary statement. What appears to be knitwear is revealed to be chainmail upon a closer look. This action is what the entire collection inspires, taking a closer look. Questioning an exterior and considering a possible alternative. The impulsive movement to question and explore is granted by McGirr.

The collection bleeds together performance and paranoia, the eerie becoming erotic and simultaneously elegant. Seán McGirr succeeds at an often impossible task, continuing the legacy of a visionary designer so beloved.