For Fall/Winter 2025, Altuzarra presents a sensual collection that remains true to the brand’s past modern capsules. According to the show’s notes, creative director Joseph Altuzarra opted to create a character with a back story rather than selecting a narrative — specifically designing the wardrobe of a character who isn’t afraid to acknowledge her past and display her scars.

In order to convey his protagonist’s story, Altuzurra’s collection focuses on simply structured silhouettes that make texture the star of the show. Pleats and draping are used to this effect, along with fringes on the skirts of textured wool sets.

Altuzurra drew inspiration from a Japanese folding screens for a gown with an all-over horse print. The creased detailing in dresses, a carry-over motif from last season’s collection was meant to be “like something that had been left in a cabinet for years,” Altuzarra says in the show’s notes.

In a more literal sense, the collection features an ensemble dotted with smudged kiss marks, with a mock neck that feels vaguely ‘80s. Furthermore, nostalgia takes a form in callbacks to the New Romantics era with balloon pants and enlarged proportions, as well as homages to the Renaissance with high collars and undershirts peeking out from under sweaters.

Some of the avant-garde headwear brings a strength to more demure looks, while others contrast the immediate heaviness given off by oversized sweaters and billowing skirts. Each look has some sort of contrast, whether that be in texture, color, or even right down to the accessory. The edge that Altuzarra adds to each look shows an acute understanding of the dualities of the character he has created, a woman who wants to embrace her history, not shy away from it.