The 1990s have long been established as one of the most revolutionary eras for fashion. A decade dominated by supermodels, modern minimalism and simplistic glamor, the fashion world was overhauled by new trends that dared to normalize the countercultural (we’re looking at you, grunge) and bridge the gender divide. 

For FW 2021, AMI Alexandre Mattiusi reminisces on 1990s New York City fashion trends in its latest release including a short film titled Le Défilé, starring one of today’s biggest supermodels, Adut Akech. The short film kicks off in AMI’s hometown of Paris, capturing the Sudanese-Australian darling posing alongside the Eiffel Tower. Cut to scenes of models fashionably arriving to set and the chaotic backstage prep of hair and makeup. The commotion looks like something out of MTV’s House of Style circa 1994 — all we’re missing is host, Cindy Crawford. 

The collection kicks off with power dressing. You get a powersuit, you get a powersuit, everybody gets a powersuit! From the classic grey to a striking cobalt blue and electric orange, AMI delivers unisex two-piece suits — a sartorial staple sure to stand the test of time. Pleats, simple lines and pristine tailoring are giving us Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy vibes. A model clad in a matrix-style leather trench coat (and matching gloves to beat) storms the runway with bad bitch energy. The 90s were known for their unorthodox approach to combining and Mattiusi stays on beat, combining the uncombinable: a casual grey hoodie beneath tweed outerwear or an elegant floor length maxi gown paired with a fur lined moto jacket. 

And lest we forget to talk about the energy of this presentation…we’re obsessed. No longer are we seeing models walking unenthusiastically down the runway and turning around sharply to return to their backstage lair. AMI has models tapping into the charismatic charm of 90s supers, playing up to a swarm of photo-hungry paparazzi on all sides of the elevated runway. Fashion’s golden era is revived through models’ larger-than-life smiles, spins and struts.

“The Fall-Winter 21 collection is a very special one, a collection that deserved to be filmed so I could fully showcase its colors, joy and high energy,” Mattiusi explains. “Through this digital presentation, I wanted to echo the fashion shows that I followed through my childhood, the  period that would later have a huge influence in my decision to become a designer.”

Easy elegance is redefined and reintroduced to a whole new generation of fashionable it-girls. It’s chic, wearable, accessible and perfectly on brand with the nonchalant ethos of the Parisian fashion house. 

You can check out the latest collection and short film at amiparis.com.