We live in a world that has placed importance on the apparent achievement of perfection. In a world ruled by filters and fillers, there is something to be said for those who chose to go against the grain. For his Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear collection, which was presented at the Peter B. Lewis Theater at the Guggenheim, designer Jason Wu was heavily inspired by German photographer Karl Blossfeldt’s un-retouched images of flora. One of the collection’s prints takes after Blossfeldt’s moody botanical photography.

In keeping with this, Wu revealed one of his moodiest collections to date featuring a limited palette of mostly dark colors, including deep reds and electrifying purples. The designer said that he sought out to push the brand’s established code of elegance with menswear-inspired tailoring paired with feminine chiffon and lace details. A sturdy, oversized coat over a lace dress nods in the direction of menswear deconstruction, while maintaining femininity throughout. 

This relationship between femininity and masculinity is explored generously throughout the collection, as both flapper and hourglass silhouettes are emphasized alongside oversized, almost-engulfing outerwear. Revealing, yet not shockingly sheer, lingerie dresses peek out from under floor length coats – a nod to the reality of navigating transportation for a night out as women. 

With Wu’s special emphasis on American craftsmanship from start to finish, the final look – a delicately beaded variation of an LBD, complete with T-back detailing  – asserted the New York atelier’s skill and exquisite attention to minute detail.