In his sophomore show, Stefano Gallici, tapped into the vast archive built by Ann Demeulemeester for a show that embodies a mindset of expression over sales. It seeks to explore the beauty of past works while following a “barbaric urge” to break the mold and build something new out of the wreckage. We are left with an intentionally disheveled collection that shows us how beautiful so-called mistakes can be.
The show starts by contrasting delicate silk sleepwear with strong leather outerwear and motorcycle boots, instantly stating the show’s thesis. From this start, menswear and womenswear looks alternate but the lines are blurred as silhouettes are mixed and matched. Leather dominates some looks while sheer fabric, a runway staple this fashion month, makes up an assortment of stunning skirts and gowns that perfectly glide down the runway.
Every look is perfectly imperfect with coats with askew fur trim, knitwear with holes and baggy suits, and asymmetrical dresses. Every model dons unkempt hair which refuses to take away from their stunning looks but makes us appreciate their raw beauty. The looks may appear messy at first glance but impeccable tailoring restrains garments from crossing the line. Structured silhouettes also pop up here and there to provide balance to the collection and showcase versatility.