In a color palette of black and white, Ann Demeulemeester’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection reads to us poetry about tailoring and modernity. The house has never changed its DNA: no intricate ornaments, no bright color regimes, but close attention to details and fabrics. The styles are simple but aren’t basic. In the era of floral and colors, Ann Demeulemeester is a summer breeze to calm us down.

As usual, this season is a wardrobe of timeless pieces: blazers, fedora hats, cargo trousers, coats, and waistcoats. Draped straps are the key element that runs through the collection. In previous collections, we’ve seen draped straps, as a lowkey detail added to essentialism. However, SS22 plays this detail up: other than fine detail, straps, in this season, are on the collar, cuffs, and tied around the waist. In other words, they’re everywhere. Swinging by catwalks on the runway, they surely liven up the black-and-white tone.

Being avant-garde but sticking to the design’s integrity, Ann Demeulemeester is probably celebrating the end of the lockdown era in its own way. Sleeveless waistcoats are paired with detached long sleeves – this combination adds an extra layer to each piece. Inside of a long coat is a hollow-out knit dress. The contradiction of the fabrics accentuates the house’s deconstructionism, speaking to the original spirit.

You can watch the show here: