As the blazing sun sets to welcome back autumn, the weather change calls for some skillful layering, and no one is more expert than Anna Sui. Gone are the days of missing the texture-mixed, grunge-chic lines of the 90s— Sui’s Resort 2023 Collection is a mirage of velvet and lace, complete with vibrant knits and patterned collars atop classic, black-lined crewneck t-shirts and dreamy slip dresses. Inspired by fairytale hues in timeless shades of violet and indigo, Sui’s collection is a nod to not only the trending decade, but to the carefree nature of uninhibitedly self-expressive dressing.

The inclusion of a familiar silhouette sums up Sui’s reimagination of the late 90s: a full-length crushed velvet halter dress from her Fall 1998 collection. An open back and fur trim merge the gap between summer and fall, and platform sneakers in electric purple keep the look casually playful. Previously paired with dainty heals and sparkling headpiece in 1998, the look’s modern upgrade indicates both Sui’s forward-thinking design ability and adaptability to ever-evolving trends.

Of course, the nostalgia extends past Sui’s own design history. Pairing green gingham skirts and dresses with arm warmers, fishnets, and striped crew socks, the designer references the 40s and 50s with just enough accessorizing to keep the attention of her 90s-obsessed buyers. A slouchy black and white checked suit is an extension of the era-fusing theme, complete with white frills and another set of chunky platform sneakers.

A post on Anna Sui’s official Instagram revealed inspiration for the collection, a mood board of dreamy fairytale graphics from a pink-hued Alice in Wonderland forest scene, to the starry night sky behind Cinderella’s racing carriage. The fantastical theme paired perfectly with Sui’s straight-cut silhouettes, making its appearance in three crushed-velvet sets in reflective cool tones. In all cuts, the flirty fabrics boasts Sui’s seamless take on mix and match dressing, from a high cut one-piece bustier to fur-trimmed full-coverage dress. This season was just waiting on 90s grunge meets whimsical princess. Thanks to Anna Sui, it’s officially here.