Jeremy Scott has always been a rebel, but the veteran creative director of Moschino might have outdone himself with his latest effort. Paying homage to aristo-punk culture and the surrealist works of Salvador Dalí, Moschino’s Fall/Winter 2023 Donna collection is a jolt of pure electricity. Spiky, jet-black hairpieces nestle on the heads of each model, their feathery spikes resembling black birds frozen in flight. Tailored hems turn jagged and drippy. Straight lines are swapped for curves and chevrons, while staid patterns like houndstooth are warped. Even jewelry is distorted, as peace sign pendants appear melted like the clocks in Dalí’s famous painting, “The Persistence of Memory.” These twists on Moschino’s house codes bring the spirit of rebellion to the forefront.

Of course, it wouldn’t be a Moschino collection without a touch of luxury. The punk trappings of the collection are underscored by fanciful details: golden boot buckles, pearl buttons, and a smattering of floral jewels. The Donna collection revels in opposites. There are smart, 80s-era skirt sets, but also bejeweled mesh bodysuits. An airy lilac ball gown shares the runway with a kinky leather mini-dress adorned with a gold zipper. The opulence is not limited to the colorful dresses and business-with-a-twist skirts and blazers. Similarly, the edgy punk details aren’t kept to the daring, leathery looks that dot the collection. There’s crossover in varying degrees, leading to some interesting and innovative combinations.

The collection’s best looks are those that fearlessly blend the two aesthetics. Leather lapels add intrigue to a boxy houndstooth blazer dress. Gleaming, heart-shaped buttons add a romantic touch to an edgy purple number. On the dramatic end of the spectrum are several stunning dresses—one taking on a puffy, cocoon-like silhouette, another framing geometric cutouts with glittering threads that make the dress appear like one giant shroud of jewelry. Nothing is safe from being jewel-encrusted, lending the collection a covetable decadence. The show-stopping final look is punk luxury at its peak: a glittering one-shoulder gown that gives the impression of a high-res photo of a galaxy overrun by stars, paired with petal-like leather opera gloves.

Scott binds the rich and enchanting with the anarchistic and surreal, never favoring one influence over another. He artfully manipulates the contrasting aesthetics such that they enhance each other. The singular spiked hair might be an attention-grabber, but even an over-the-top headpiece can’t steal the shine of the collection’s bijoux brilliance. Moschino’s FW23 collection finds appeal in its versatility. Garments are pointed, rounded, ruffled, laced, pillowy, adorned with gems and bows and buttons. Yet the excess is intentional. There’s a meaning to the drama, a purpose to the aristo-punk flair. Moschino isn’t just breaking the rules—it’s grinding them into glittery dust.