If anyone knows how to put on a show, its Balenciaga.

The genius of Demna Gvasalia manifested itself this season through a meta show within a show at Paris Fashion Week—that is, a Simpsons short film in which Marge and Bart go to Paris Fashion Week in Balenciaga, aired simultaneously to the red carpet full of models and celebrities—including Cardi B, Offset and Ella Emhoff—wearing the SS22 collection, replacing a traditional runway (but still keeping fashion show guests present, watching a live feed of the red carpet).

For spring/summer 2022, Balenciaga dips into dark, romantic sophistication. Exaggerated, voluminous silhouettes and sleek, sharp cuts both take the center stage, embedded in a black-on-black palette. Every look brings the elevated sophistication of Balenciaga with the contemporary coolness of Gvasalia; when it comes to all black everything from head to toe, it is done best by Balenciaga.

Shiny textures and oversized ruffles give way to more casual looks as the collection spans over 60 looks: dark, baggy denim jackets and jeans, relaxed bomber jackets, tracksuits, mesh tops and even an all black hoodie and face mask ensemble worn by Gvasalia himself exude a sharp modernism, a keen understanding of the zeitgeist and where the classic, timeless pieces of Balenciaga fit in.

Playing with shape and silhouette, Balenciaga oversized blazers with exaggerated shoulder pads, and undersized—well, nothing. The remarkability of having a collection of oversized, baggy clothes without the appearance of drowning in a sea of black fabrics, leather and mesh coming together, creates an effect that is controlled and complete rather than messy or overwhelming; everything, dressed up or down, is put-together and classy.

Standout looks in the collection waver from the functional to the fantastical. There is the first red carpet look, an entirely ruffled black gown with huge sleeves and an even bigger skirt; a metallic silver, structured dress with a square neck and trailing train; a crisp leather jacket paired with tailored trousers and a transparent mesh top; and a form-fitting body suit, hugging every curve from head to toe. 

If this Paris Fashion Week show revealed anything, it’s that there are two B words to keep close for spring/summer ‘22: black, and Balenciaga.