When Meryl Streep graced our screens as the conniving Editor-in-Chief of the fictional magazine ‘Runway’ in The Devil Wear’s Prada, audiences everywhere were mesmerized by her witty (and strikingly harsh) comebacks, undeniable style, and iconic lines such as “Florals? For Spring? Groundbreaking.”

That exact quote was in our heads as Olivier Rousteing, Creative Director for Balmain, presented his Spring/Summer 2024 collection for the house because his florals were actually groundbreaking. Rousteing, known for pulling directly from the label’s archives to fuel his innovative designs, curated a lookbook made up of deliciously sculpted garments, accentuating the rose.

Despite the shocking news of being robbed of 50 pieces that were to grace the runway during Paris Fashion Week, the Balmain design team was resilient, superseding the looks in a matter of days to conduct a collection that was flowery and fantastic. House codes from the ’50s and ’90s were present throughout the collections, blossoming a fresh chapter for the French label.

Pierre Balmain’s signature motifs were present in the collection through precision tailoring, and architectural elements to create garments in an array of shades and delicate materials. A garden was created on the runway and sewed onto pieces from single-bud adornments to kaleidoscopic prints filled with cabbage roses. Roses are crafted in 3D from patent leather, rubber, latex, porcelain, and sustainably recycled plastic bottles- constructing a stylish symbol for the collection. Chic Parisian elements are implemented in structured blazers and power suits, dainty flats, and loads and loads of polka dots (would it be a Balmain collection without them?)

Dresses are mini and made in Crinoline, skirts are pleated and lettuce-hemmed, and hips are padded to create an “inflatable” form for built-in comfort. The return of the peplum top is emerging and was seen in the collection paired with a very Madonna-esque cone bra. Pieces are built like works of art, with one dress in the shape of a rose lattice and shoes illustrating colorful flower petals. A color palette is completed with dreamy pastels of butter yellow, baby pink, powder blue, and cloudy cream. Elsewhere, Kelly green, cobalt blue, and rose red are coated in the collection.

Accessories include chunked-up bangles, glamorous oversized earrings, boxy mini bags, and flower bouquets in vase-shaped bags.

Balmain’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection was a triumph at its best, proving that a collection is not created without love, with the symbol of the rose signifying Rousteing’s adornment for the brand and his entire team, who worked hard to create yet another exquisite display.