In her first solo catwalk show, Bianca Saunders reinforced her place in menswear fashion. The Autumn Winter 2022 show, which took place at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris, was a milestone for the London-born designer as she solidifies her brand’s identity.  

The collection is marked by experimental tailoring and warped patterns, and Saunders explores materials to produce pieces that play with dimension and physicality. Standout pieces include matching sets with a black and white warped check pattern, as well as a green leather jacket complete with the Saunders signature rolled shoulder detail.  

Other experimental elements of the collection, titled “A STRETCH,” include folded pants with twisted inseams and asymmetric zippers, as well as jackets with notched necklines and pleated shoulders designed to look like gilets. All the pieces work together to create a cohesive collection that highlights movement and shape in the male body. “I want the collection to be timeless – it could be now, it could be the past, it could be the future,” says Saunders. “It’s not just about one person – I want everyone to see a part of themselves in it.” 

Creative tailoring has become a staple for Saunders, whose entire collection is handmade by herself and her three employees in London. Last year’s AW collection focused on refining her key silhouettes, all of which she’s mastered this time around. She’s also expanded on her creative use of prints (last year creating prints of creased fabric and superimposing it onto her clothes), using special weaves to create the effect of TV static on clothing.  

If you’re surprised that this was Saunders’ first-ever solo catwalk show, you’re not alone. The up-and-coming designer has been a name in the industry since she completed her Master’s program at London’s prestigious Royal College of Art. She first debuted her line in 2018 at London Fashion Week Men’s, and since then, has earned a host of awards and accolades, including the ANDAM Award in 2021. She’s been shortlisted for this year’s LVMH Prize, and the BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund. 

While her easy to wear, well-designed pieces have made her into a budding star in the men’s fashion arena, she’s also been noticed by fully-fledged stars like Naomi Campbell, who hosted a dinner in celebration of Saunders new collection at Soho House Paris.  

If her first catwalk show proved anything, it’s that Saunders has officially found herself as a designer. The next step: ramping up production and moving away from the wholesale model that helped get her business off the ground. 

Watch the full show, below: