Black Designers Unveiling Their Latest Collections at NYFW
A glorious vanguard embracing Black heritage, Black beauty, sustainability and more
Strides towards inclusion are strutted across catwalks and behind the seams. The fashion industry has faced ongoing criticism surrounding it’s lack of recognition and support for Black designers, but in the last few years we’ve witnessed gradual progress. As New York Fashion Week kicks off Sunday, more than 20 Black designers are scheduled to showcase their creations—household, and emerging names alike.
Founded in June 2020, the Black in Fashion Council returns to fashion week with a four-day showroom in New York. In partnership with IMG, the showroom will highlight 16 Black designers who will unveil their collections from Feb. 14th to 17th.
Delve into a few favorites below.
The Brooklyn-based conceptual clothing brand is a colorful celebration of cultural identities. Jamaican born, Theophilio’s founder and creative director Edvin Thompson taps into his island roots and the city’s contemporary scape making a ‘wearable biography.’ His Spring 2021 collection was a tantalizing tribute to his home country with sheer slip dresses, mesh tops and bottom-shown accentuated with corset ties at the back. Thompson’s designs are just as stunning as they are sustainable, made out of up-cycled materials, and have graced the glossy mages of acclaimed magazines while finding fans in Gabrielle Union, Tinashe and model Alton Mason. Theophilio’s newest collection will be showcased on Feb. 17th.
Based in Washington D.C., Dur Doux is helmed by mother-daughter duo Cynthia and Nayla Burt. The pairs designs are a force to be reckoned with, specializing in a striking blend of every-day-wear with avant-garde sensibility. Signature looks arrive in unexpected shapes and details, that establish a bold and strong essence. Dur Doux makes luxury fashion more accessible with it’s affordable price range, their grandiose tulle dress has become a favorite. The brand’s Fall 2021 collection will be live-streamed on Tuesday, February 16th at 1:00 p.m.
Italian for “no sex/no gender,” No Sesso harnesses freedom of expression with it’s fluid approach to gendered dressing. Previous collections have drawn inspiration streetwear influences and artisanal roots, up-cylcing and re-purposing fabrics to spin couture pieces, some were even handcrafted. Their success has even seeped into the realm of Depop, where they dropped a sustainable knit line. The Los Angeles-based is grounded in community which has evolved into a ground collective of Black creatives. At 3 pm on Feb 16th be among the first to see how these Pierre Davis and Arin Hayes explore new ways to break the boundaries and challenge the conventions of fashion, art culture, and design
House of Aama
Rooted in the exploring and honoring the African continent and diaspora, this culturally inspired lifestyle brand creates timeless garments that are an ode and celebration of lineage. Masterminds behind brand, are mother and daughter, Rebecca Henry and Akua Shabaka. The duo’s designs are an embodiment of historical research, archival analysis and storytelling. For House of Aama’s most recent collection, the pair released a sustainable “Nude” capsule collection for women of color, featuring a color palettes inspired by the varying colors in their own lineage. Released in November, the ‘BLOODROOT’ collection paid tribute to Black American he folkways of the Black experience, with etherial victorian frills and earthy tones. House of Amma will be featured in NYFW’s Black Fashion Council showroom showcase from Feb. 16-17 at Spring Studios.
Studio One Eighty-Nine
Founded by Abrima Erwiah, a former executive at Bottega Veneta, and actress Rosario Dawson, the sustainable brand works with artisanal communities that specialize in an array of traditional craftsmanship. Natural plant based dye indigo, kent weaving, and hand-batik bring a hand made touch to the designs, that include colorful up-cycled denim numbers, corduroy striped jackets and polka dot dresses. Even-though the two are not directly designing each piece, V magazine recognizes their representation of African artisans. Studio One Eighty-Nine has frequently collaborated with revered brands such as LVMH, Fendi and Opening Ceremony. They will be showcasing their latest collection on Feb. 17th at 3:30pm.
LaQuan Smith dreams up seductive and sensuous artistry, empowering all who are lucky enough to wear or view his designs. Often looking up to creative giants such as Patrick Kelly and André Leon Talley, who were shaped by Black experiences and who have moulded the industry’s current generation. From satin corsets to beaded sets, Smith inspires unapologetic sexiness and rightfully dismantles rigid conventions–all with the intention to purposely uplift the diversity of all women’s bodies. His garments are sought out by many celebrities, including Queen Bey and J.Lo. The latest collection will be unveiled Feb. 18th.
See below for a full list of Black designers scheduled to showcase during NYFW.
Sincerely Ria 2:00 pm
Chelsea Grays 12:20pm
Victor Glemaud 11:00am
Justin wesley 11:00am
Ka Ka Wey 12:40pm ?
Lavie by CK Claude Kameni 5:30pm
Negris LeBrum 6:30pm
Tiffany Brown 6:30pm
Kimberly Goldson 12:00pm
Dur Doux 1:00pm
Marrisa Wilson 1:00pm
No sesso 3:00pm
Sergio hudson 3:30 pm
Lola Ade 3:30 pm
Kevan Hall 5:30pm
Frederick Anderson 6:00pm
Nicole Shante 2:30pm
Undra Celeste 3:30pm
Studio One Eighty-Nine 3:30pm
Chuks collins 6:00pm
Laquan Smith 2:00pm