Blumarine’s Fall–Winter 2026 collection centers on a mythological diva rooted in Italy’s theatrical and operatic history. Rather than presenting her as pure spectacle, designer David Koma shapes her through contrasts of strictness and softness, ferocity and fragility. Within this tension, he draws from multiple sources of inspiration, allowing his distinct visual language to converge with Italian romanticism.

The wardrobe unfolds in operatic silhouettes that balance structure with fluidity. At its core is Blumarine’s emblematic rose, blooming across the collection in red-and-black prints on taffeta beetle-back capes, in three-dimensional knitted strands of petals climbing sculpted cardigans, and in frayed ruffles tracing crinoline and tiered crêpon dresses and tailored trousers.

Koma’s exploration extends to Venice, a city synonymous with masks, spectacle, and cinematic grandeur. Baroque references surface in rose-shaped metal-and-enamel cameo buttons that punctuate the ruffs and cuffs of a black bonded crêpe cady mini-skirt suit. The motif carries into white and black scuba suits with boned jackets that echo the silhouette of commedia dell’arte’s Harlequin — a character long tied to Venetian Carnival — finished with hand-embroidered macramé collars and cuffs.

Elsewhere, baroque ornamentation merges with the metallic hardware central to Koma’s design language. Cameo buttons evolve into latticed metal cages worn over denim trousers and harness-style tops, and recur in stacked gold necklaces with crosses and crystal-encrusted bows, as well as in chokers, rings, and earrings. The effect transforms the garments into a kind of soft armor, where flashes of silver and gold cut through a darkly theatrical palette of red, black, and white.