For Olivier Theyskens, “le monde flottant” is the center of the universe. Translated into English, the term means “the floating world,” a unique perspective on our position, humanity’s position, in time and space.

On the one hand, Earth is, in a way, floating, suspended in orbit by its neighboring planets’ gravitational pulls. But “le monde flottant” pulls together more than just astrophysical realities. The floating world, in this case, is Boloria’s debut collection, a gallery of perspectives and histories unanchored by norms and prejudice.

A debut collection is a major moment for any new fashion house. It is a first impression, an opportunity to set the tone and identity of the label for years to come. With their debut collection, Boloria’s presentation of “Le Monde Flottant” emphasizes an progressive view of the past.

“The floating world” is also an idea, or ideal, present in Japanese literature. “Ukiyo,” which carries the same meaning, is often described as the inclination toward pleasure and living life one moment at a time. This particular interpretation is present in Boloria’s styling, with models walking the runway with blazers thrown over one shoulder, and ties crookedly protruding from wool waistcoats.

Though traditionally gendered silhouettes are presented, an essence of fluidity is intertwined throughout the ensemble. Elegant, though conservative, suits and dresses are twisted with slight warps, like a flipped collar or a mesh sweater vest. Many of the pieces are functional for varying degrees of formality, from swooping gowns suited for a gala to more casual button-up shirts and jackets.

Boloria approached its first collection with a notably muted color palette. Blacks, browns, and whites dominate many of the looks presented, with the loudest look being a coral sweater vest paired with a copper orange jacket.

Yet, the palette serves the greater theme of “past-meets-present” immensely well, allowing the distinct fabrications to shine through. Glossy patent leathers and precious cashmeres become all the more noticeable given the toned-down colors.

The looks, though varied in cut, shape, and fabric, each play a distinct role in serving the collection’s purpose. Pleasure, spontaneity, and pace are the tenets of Le Monde Flottant, and they are highly visible in Boloria’s presentation. And although it is only the house’s first collection, it is fair to say the Belgian label has made quite the first impression.