The stage was set for Emporio Armani’s Fall 2023 ready-to-wear collection at Giorgio Armani’s Via Bergognone Tadao Ando-designed space. Here, the 88-year-old designer unveiled a collection that explored the color spectrum, offering bursts of magentas, blues, and purples throughout what was, otherwise, a monochromatic display.

Lush blue and green velvet suits meet buttery, pink silk shirts, adorned with ruffle collars. Bowler hats and black ribbon neckpieces allude to something vaguely exaggerated, vaguely theatrical. Asymmetrically buttoned jackets and evening tops with grosgrain straps point in the direction of stage clothes, bringing a light, almost jovial spirit to the collection. The designer spoke to this detailing, offering that the collection looked at the concept of character and costume. 

In traditional Armani fashion, jackets, and coats made up much of the pieces, each with varying cuts and fabrics, yet most in subdued neutrals. Here and there we see a splash of vibrancy – a velvety red suit, a patterned pink jacket – hinting at what’s to come in the backend of the show. 

A perceptible shift occurred about halfway through the collection. Evening wear took center stage, as printed tops and pseudo-luminescent pants seemed to mimic, what I can only seem to dub as, the ebb and flow of a lava lamp. Sequin-adorned dresses and bottoms paired with skimpier tops helped usher in the night, increasing the theatrics of the collection.

The final look of the night stood out not only for the Charlie Chaplin-like black hat she was sporting, but also for the beaming smile plastered across her face, ending the night with a bang.