Brunello Cucinelli Fall/Winter 2023

Timelessness or timeliness? Cucinelli argues both.

As far as timeless menswear brands go, Brunello Cucinelli is a consistently undisputed one. This concept of passing time, something that the Italian-based brand has undoubtedly mastered, is an idea that Cucinelli chose as the inspiration for his FW23 collection, presented this week in Milan. A full range of meanings have been extrapolated from the concept of time: the importance of it, how it allows for the growth of knowledge, the amount of time that it takes for an artisanal garment to be made, the time for which a garment can exist in the world, etc. This mulling over time and its complexities led to the creation of the collection, where each look contains a standout garment that is grounded by the calm cool collected-ness of the rest of the look.

What appears as the most contemporary note in the collection is the ever-so-slightly relaxing in tailoring. Suit jackets are non-restrictive in their silhouette, and have been made out of fabrics that allow the wearer to match with a wide range of pants. The trousers in the collection also contain echoes of the zeitgeist while remaining ultimately timeless, with a slightly looser fit and higher rise.

In true Cucinelli style, the fabrics have been crafted to a tea. From fair isle knit sweaters made out of alpaca yarns to the vicuña cloth accents on leather bombers, the collection is an easy choice for anyone who wants their clothes to feel just as good as they look. The label’s classic range of beiges is deepened with a noble dark blue as well as a grayish burgundy that has been chosen to reflect the blurriness that the passage of time can bring, almost like an old faded photo of a glass of red wine.

While Cucinelli does their fair share of trend-driven design (i.e. looser fitting trousers, a relaxing of tailoring), what makes their clothing so magnificent is the timelessness of it all. These garments are reflective of true luxury in menswear, clothing that is made out of the best materials, that will fit right in your closet, and that are easy as well as enjoyable to wear. Cucinelli knows exactly how far to lean into a trend to deliver a new vision, yet at their core, these are pieces that are meant to last a lifetime — or rather, to get better with time.

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