Brunello Cucinelli Masters the Balance Between Timeless and Contemporary

The brands FW23 womenswear collection introduces a newfound academic charm as well as show-stopping knits

This fashion week, Brunello Cucinelli strikes a balance between ’90s-inspired clean lines and contemporary tailoring that has long categorized the brand as the epitome of understated luxury.  Inspired just as much by the low-lit atmospheres of jazz clubs as the rolling hills of the countryside, the pieces come together to create a harmonious collection further cultivating Cucinelli’s specific stylistic synthesis. 

If one word could be used to describe this collection, it would be balanced. The brand likes to stick to what they know – pieces that are both timeless yet made strikingly contemporary through the slightest adjustments and adding of accessories. Sticking to their famous neutral color scheme of winter whites and beiges, pops of magnetic blue hues act as a new type of “color-not-color” – the tone provides that added spirit without  posing as a distraction from the established palette. Basic doesn’t mean boring, as shown by the pairings of fun prep-inspired Spencer jackets and bombers with denim and suede midi skirts. In addition to Cucinelli staples such as perfectly tailored trousers, elevated tops and classic knit silhouettes, a newfound academic charm introduces a playful youthfulness into the brand’s traditionally more mature styles. Stripes, micro patterns, pleated miniskirts, tennis-style V-necks, baseball caps, ties, and socks worn with loafers and heels all borrow inspiration from school uniforms, one of fashion’s favorite aesthetics to revisit and revise. 

However, what really steals the show are the different fabrics and textures that pair beautifully with the more understated pieces. Bouclé, quilted fabrics, mohair, alpaca yak fibers, soft shearlings, and fleecy materials reconnect the collection to the casual coolness of country landscapes, while mid-weight knitwear incorporates a highly artisanal vibe that embodies the brand’s distinctive fusion of craftsmanship, innovation, and contemporary energy. Highlights include a tiered midi skirt that combines sequins and wool in an intriguing fringe design, poncho-inspired heavy knit outerwear elements, and a mohair zip-up navy cardigan. The result is outerwear and knits that, while guaranteed to keep you warm, appear cool, airy, and embedded with a carefree, relaxed energy. 

Harking back to the idea of balance, signature sparkles, silks, and sequins make an appearance alongside nature-inspired designs, adding Cucinelli’s signature touch to nightwear pieces. In black and white, the designer curates a new interpretation of the women’s tuxedo, featuring panels on button-downs and suit pants inspired by traditional men’s tailoring. In reference to the ’90s, slip dresses make an appearance, as do skirts in satin and lamé. And it wouldn’t be Cucinelli without some embroidery taking center stage. 

As many other brands have demonstrated, this season is all about simple dressing – and for those looking to perfect that art while incorporating some added flair, Cucinelli collection hits all the notes needed for a stellar winter wardrobe.

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