Fashion, at its core, is an attempt to pay tribute to or honor a thought or a philosophy. It is with that sentiment that Burberry unveils its Autumn/Winter 2021 presentation, an ode to Mother Nature and the power of femininity.

“I wanted this collection to feel truly emblematic of the power of feminine energy: a modern armour that captures its characteristic fierce aura,” says Burberry Chief Creative Officer Riccardo Tisci. “There’s an underlying attitude to the collection that’s very British; of being unique, eccentric, and totally authentic in how you express yourself.”

With a theme like that, you’d think that the focus of the collection would be on creating feminine shapes and garments, light, dainty, and graceful. And there’s plenty of that, but there’s a lot more edge and nods towards the hard masculine edge of androgyny and gender-fluid silhouettes. The collection challenges the conventional notion of “feminine,” featuring elegant and flowy garments with linear shapes and sharp lines. It’s almost like a nod to the evolution of the female silhouette over the ages (without the hoop skirts).

Every single piece of the collection has been crafted with great attention to detail, whether it’s on the pattern work or the use of color. Typical pieces are given flair through extra choices, like a fur tassel here, or shoulder cut-outs there, or loose flaps…well, everywhere. The individual pieces stand quite apart from each other, coming in fur coats and parkas, patterned capes, skin-tight dresses bathed in gold sequins and lamé. Some of the accessories and headwear, in particular, experiment with more avant-garde shapes and proportions, seeming almost religious.

From a purely aesthetic craftsmanship point of view, there’s a variety of fabrics and textures in play, patterns, even luxurious furs. The colors mostly stick to earth tones of orange, gold, brown, and beige, with bright pops of color in the sunny yellows, reds, and baby pinks representing a burst of optimism, according to the brand’s description.

Speaking of beige, what allows each ensemble the chance to shine is the setting of the show, within Burberry’s flagship Regent Street store in London, embellished with asymmetrical platforms and drapings that mute the background and allow the fabrics to pop. Contrast that soft setting with a hard and electronic soundtrack, you’ve got yourself a Burberry show.

Riccardo Tisci with the models at the A/W 21 Presentation

You can find the entire collection to view on Burberry’s website. Meanwhile, check out the Autumn/Winter 21 Presentation below: