On the first Friday of February, Calvin Klein’s global headquarters were abuzz. The American brand has become synonymous with intimates ー we all know and love the racy parade of celebrities flaunting “in my Calvins” ー standing as the ultimate undies monolith. Until now. Within New York City’s Garment District, plush carpets are spread across headquarter floors, the new Calvin Klein Collection logo hand-carved into the runners. 

Courtesy of Calvin Klein Collection

Bridging its founding ethos and typeface to present modernity, Calvin Klein’s latest runway show presents Creative Director Veronica Leoni’s debut. But that’s not it. The New York Fashion Week spectacle also signifies Calvin Klein’s reintroduction to the sartorial strip. 

Courtesy of Calvin Klein Collection

Monumental minimalism dominates the line, and Leoni’s latest vision grounds the collection’s structure in its endurance. At its foundation, each piece is fit to withstand the tests of time, built on the idea of clothes for life. Eternal essentials, if you will. 

Courtesy of Calvin Klein Collection

Rooted in the brand’s signature neutrals ー black, granite, moongrey, off-white, and porcelain ー the collection’s tactile fabrics are transformed into wardrobe staples punctuated with accents of raspberry and pale citron. 

Courtesy of Calvin Klein Collection

Minimalism courts individuality, and purity fawns over self-expression. Trench coats with strict cuts give way to shiny faille and satin, as dense and soft wool mingles with expressions of brushed cotton. Amidst capes of dry gabardine, five-pocket trousers and square-toed flats nudge each look into fashionable perpetuity. 

Courtesy of Calvin Klein Collection

Ultimately, the line is defined by its voguish contradictions. Lean and narrow silhouettes contend with enveloping fabrics and forms. While strict cuts give way to embroidery and embellishment, wild organza and liquid draping snap us back to steady restraint. Tailoring is hollowed out from the inside so that pieces are rendered weightless, while the CK One bottle, reimagined as a clutch, brings us right back down to earth.