Hedi Slimane, artistic director of Celine, is no stranger to crafting rich, layered garments. This is his specialty, bringing a sense of tangible luxury to his clothes. Still, Slimane also wants to induce some element of performance, making all of his runway presentations a high-stakes show. Taking place at Los Angeles’ historic Wiltern and underscored by the White Stripes, the Celine Winter ‘23 presentation was an entertaining feast, embracing that rocker mentality. And, on a collection level, the garments reflect this spirit of live energy. Luxe but moving, models are ready to attend their favorite club or concert while looking their best. 

Music is a clear source of inspiration for Hedi Slimane, having gained his stripes by dressing many of the uppermost figures in the music industry. This connection between performance and fashion seems intrinsic to Slimane, with the artistic director commenting, “I can only think about something almost tribal, fashion and live performance as a liturgic ritual. They are both about togetherness, belonging privately and publicly, semiotics, attitudes, and proportions. It is a language responding to the sound of the time.” That collaboration between the auditory and the visual was on full display at the Winter ‘23 runway presentation, with the showing featuring performances by Iggy Pop, The Strokes, Interpol, and a DJ set by The Kills. 

The venue itself also has a historic connection to music and performance, further imbuing this aesthetic choice within the presentation. Originally a vaudeville theatre, the glitter, and colors of this iconic style of drama are still manifest within the space. The theatre then became a Warner Bros movie palace, moving towards that more visual, film medium. Now the theatre stands as a monument to all this history, filled with neon signs and glowing backdrops. For a collection that celebrates the world of live performance and entertainment, the Wiltern perfectly reflects Slimane’s mission. 

On a collection-specific level, this rocker attitude thoroughly permeates Slimane’s design aesthetic. With low-hanging ties ala Avril Lavigne and sunglasses adorning most models, the collection carries a ‘cooler-than-you’ attitude. His smaller, more moveable garments feature dark tones of black and grey with gold accents, becoming luxe statement pieces not in their external magnificence but in their intricate, high-class styling. There’s a celebrity style of exclusivity to the collection: models seem ready to secretly sneak into Erewhon or to run from the paps after leaving the club. 

And then, the big statement finale: Slimane’s gowns. This is where he can truly show his cards, grabbing eyes and applause all in one go. In shimmering shades of silver and gold, the collection’s gowns are effortlessly draped and perfectly catch the light. They glow for all to see, crafted to make a statement. There’s no doubt that we’ll be seeing some of these gowns on the red carpet, sported by our favorite stars of music and film, in just a few months. 

Hedi Slimane has worked hard to make Celine more present with the times, and more immersed in popular culture. Those changes have been in strides big and small, starting with the removal of the accented é back in 2018. If the Winter ‘23 collection demonstrates anything, it’s that Slimane’s mission has been a success. The offerings are mass-appealing to the eye, yet exclusive to the wearer. This rockstar collection is just the tip of the iceberg; Celine is here to spark a movement.